Developing
your site- This is something you should not over look before you start doing your landscape. You
need to take a close look at the rough grade and make sure that it is draining away from the building. Also important
is your the condition of the soil and how much additional or replacement soil you will need to provide a good growing
environment for your plants and turf. Poor soil is why most of the time plants don't do well. The rough grade determines
how your finish grade will lay out. If you have a large area to grade you should use a laser level / transit (
they are for rent at most equipment rental places ) to make sure the grade is set for drainage away from your house
and other buildings. Now you can determine how much "fill 'dirt" will be needed and about how much topsoil
you will need, allow for at least 6" of topsoil. Here is a formula for determining the quantity of soil -
width x length x depth. So if you had a area of 100' x 50 ' and needed 6" of top soil, the equation would
be 100 x 50 x .5 divided by 27 (sq. ft. in a cubic yard ). That will give you your total cubic yards of soil.
THE IRRIGATION DESIGN -
The first thing you need to do before you can install your new irrigation system is create a design and materials
list. This is usually required for most types of irrigation systems.
The second step is to do a take-off (materials list) from your plan. You can learn about this and how to professionally install your irrigation by going ( clicking ) to the irrigation
tutorial at: http://www.JessStryker.com/install.htm
Back to Top Selecting your plants -This may be a little
confusing so go to your local nursery or garden center and don't be afraid to ask questions. What cultivators should
you choose for landscaping your particular lot and are they hardy enough to survive where you live? Give yourself
enough time to plan your home landscape carefully. The average landscaped house is worth 10-15% more than the bare
house and lot. Your landscaping may represent a value of 5,000 to 20,000 dollars! It is therefore very important
to find out as much as you can about the plant materials you want to plant.
When selecting plants, do not be overly concerned with the flowers they may provide. Flowers often last for only
1 or 2 days. They are less important than:
Foliage texture (feathery, shiny, fuzzy) and color (yellow silver blue).
Fruit that stays on the plant for several months and also feeds the birds.
Fall leaf color that may last for 2 weeks.
Stem and bark color that adds to the winter landscape.
Many fruit trees and shrubs can provide attractive flowers and colors for your home landscape as well as a good
supply of edible fruit for the table. I would advise you to consider fruit trees for their ornamental value in
landscaping. They can produce fruit for a pie but they can also beautify your surroundings.
One mistake people make is when young plants are planted too close for proper development. Find out how large a
plant will be when it is fully grown. Do not plant big trees on a city lot. Most poplars, maples, elms, willows,
spruce and pine are too large to be used on a 15 m (50 ft) lot. It is often tempting to buy a low-price tree like
a poplar. You may discover that you must spend 80 to 100 dollars annually to prune your once-prized poplar. Often
such a tree will become so large that it may endanger the house, and then you will have the costs of tree removal
or house repairs from falling branches.
Ground covers are plants that can serve you in many ways on difficult sites where other plants fail to grow. Some
are adapted to steep slopes, dense shade, dryness, poor drainage, salty or acid soils, wind exposure and odd shaped
areas. For about every site problem, there is an adapted ground cover that will thrive, cover and protect the problem
site, and add variety and harmony to the entire landscape. They may be used to cover bare areas, to prevent wind
or water erosion of the soil, to regulate foot traffic and to tie together unrelated features in the landscape.
According to the "Guide to Plant Appraisal" published by the Council of Tree & Landscape Appraisers:
"[real estate] Studies have shown that trees may add seven to 15 percent to the value of a house and lot.
Landscaping may account for up to 25 percent of the value of a house and lot. On this basis, trees might account
for up to 15 percent of the value of a residential property." BACK TO TOP Soil and Site Preparation for Lawns -Success
or failure of a home lawn is closely tied into how well the soil and site was prepared prior to lawn establishment.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quack grass,
need to be controlled prior to lawn seeding or sodding. Weed control options include digging by hand or using a
translocated (moves within plant) non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, sold as Roundup and other trade
names. Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds.
Both herbicides don't leave active soil residues that would harm lawn seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all
label directions.
Before seeding or sodding, it's very important to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller). Amend poor soils,
such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil.
Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested
as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH
and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed,
it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn. In addition, the lawn will get off to a better start
when soils are modified prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for details
on how to get a soil test.
Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically
have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test
results may reveal a shortage of phosphorus or potassium, which would influence the decision of how much starter
fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it's important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal
of any rock or other debris. Avoid burying construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later.
Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be 1 to 2 percent away from buildings (1 to 2 feet
drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Taking shortcuts in soil and site preparation often leads to assorted lawn problems later. Take the time and effort
to do a thorough job before seeding or sodding. BACK TO TOP Turf and Lawns -Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses
have been chosen, it's time to plant the lawn. The decision whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors.
Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same.
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding
lawns in northern areas. April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads
to problems. Dormant seeding, occasionally done by professional groundskeepers, is difficult and thus not suggested
for homeowners. Seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential
disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling
survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until
grasses are established. Use about 1 bale per 1,000 square feet.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq. ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass blend 1 to 3
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial rye grass mix (80:20) 3 to 4
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue mix (50:50) 3 to 5
Tall fescue blend 6 to 9
When using sod, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type
of soil as exists on the site. Install the sod promptly because it is perishable. Stagger edges in a similar pattern
as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water
should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns
on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between
2 and 3 inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don't fertilize
newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; May and September are key
times. Avoid over-applying nitrogen fertilizer, especially in spring or summer.
Recommended Perennial Rye grass Cultivators
Advent
Allaire
APM
Barage
Barry
Birdie II
Blazer II
Brenda
Hiring a contractor - This can be frustrating task because you can get many different opinions. The most recommended
method is find a "qualified contractor" you feel comfortable with and negotiate a fair price. Another
important thing to do is check out the contractors past record. Have them give you references and locations of
past jobs. Contact the State Contractors Board to confirm the contractors status. Finally, if you
decide to obtain
bids, have all the contractors you are getting bids from, bid on the same plan. So if you don't have a plan you
need to have one complete before you take bids. That way you can compare "apples with apples". Don't
be lured by a low bid as this some times means the contractor plans on cutting corners, not providing "service
after the sale", or just inexperienced. Also check out the warranty each has to offer.... then make your best
choice.
Click on any of the links below for more information.
Developing a Landscape Design and Plan
-Far too often homeowners begin landscaping without a plan. They plant a few shade trees here and there and evergreen
shrubs around the house's foundation. This haphazard approach rarely looks good, often does not fit in with the
family's activities, and can cost more than well planned landscape.
Careful landscape planning can increase your family's enjoyment of your property and add significantly to the value
of your home. Most important, an unorganized planting can increase the time and money needed to maintain the plants.
Here are a few tips for developing your plan:
Consider your landscape an outdoor extension of your home. Be sure to look at the view from the windows in each
room in your home.
Walk over the property and note both good and bad features of the landscape.
Consider the location of walks, drives, utilities and existing plants.
Look for good views you wish to keep, as well as bad views you would prefer to hide.
Examine how the sun and wind strike the house and decide whether you wish to modify these.
Look for ways to increase privacy in certain areas of your landscape.
Look at the way the sun moves across your property. This too, will affect your plans.
Once you have identified the major features of the yard, you are ready to put your ideas on paper by making a plan.
To place ornamental plants properly, you need a scale drawing that will provide a bird's-eye view of your property.
It should accurately locate the major features of the landscape. Measure as accurately as possible using graph
paper. If a surveyor's plan is available, it might be a helpful reference. Some of the items that should be part
of the plan are:
Property lines.
The house, drives, walks and fences.
Utility poles, lines and meters.
Underground utilities, pipes or the septic system
Compass directions
The roof overhang, water spigots, windows and doors.
All existing features should be located and recorded.
Once the plan is complete, it is time to select the plants. Select plants for the characteristics you need to meet
the goals of your plan. Ornamental characteristics should be secondary to function. Make sure the plants selected
fit the environmental conditions you have identified as existing on the site. Trees should not interfere with overhead
or underground utilities, and all plants should be planted where they'll have proper sun, good soil, water and
adequate space to develop .The budget amount that an owner chooses to invest in landscaping varies greatly, depending
upon the existing material already present, size of lot, neighborhood value, their own aspirations and concerns,
and their immediate budget.
As a rule of thumb I suggest that an owner budget 5-10 percent of the value of the property. With a good design,
that amount of investment could increase the value of the property up to the 15-25 percent range. More than that
might be justified if the owner is looking for a posh look, but wouldn't be justified by economics.
Because of the effort and cost of going through the construction process a less amount might, or might not be,
efficient. Design fees might range from 6% to 11% of cost of construction, depending. The larger the project, the
lower the design fee. National average fee for landscape architects is about $105 per hour. [ASLA published survey
"Map of the Territory"] Starting fees might be around $50 an hour for someone with less training or experience.
Based upon my experience, I believe that the relative value of a more experienced opinion increases exponentially.
Twice the fee might be worth 10 times as much in actual value, when making recommendations on such a significant
investment.
A one or two hour consultation might be worthwhile for the average 1/4 acre parcel. More time than that might not
be economical. A developed design might take 5-8 hours, and 12-15 hours (or more) for complete working drawings,
for an upscale residence.
There are actually three landscape professional that should be considered. A Landscape Architect to assess the
design, a Licensed Landscape Contractor to estimate the cost and a trained consulting Arborist to inspect for hazard
trees.
Back to Top Quality landscape lighting has moved well beyond the familiar "runway pattern" down the side of the driveway or sidewalk.
Whether you want to extend your use of the outdoor space into late summer evenings or you choose to contemplate
your winter garden view from the living room, contemporary garden lighting is more than decoration.
Low-voltage systems, i.e., 12-volt, allows easy, above-ground installation, with the flexibility for change as
plant materials mature; a line-voltage system, i.e.120 or 240-volt, must be installed by a licensed electrician,
and is usually intended for long term use in a permanent location, or planned for a larger site
"See the light, not the lamp." Design the installation so that it is the subtle effect of the light on
the plants that you see, not the glare of the bulb.
Invest in high-quality fixtures, rated for "Wet Locations", for good, dependable performance over the
period of several years whether for security, safety, or aesthetics, design in consideration of the various activities
for which you use your outdoor space -entertaining, sports, intimate dinners, evening relaxation, easy viewing,
water features, specimen plants.
Relatively inexpensive controllers will allow you to adjust your installation to suit you, automatically.
Regular, annual maintenance is important to guarantee good system operation replace burnt-out lamps, clean the
glass lenses, adjust the fixture positions and check the the connections and fittings for corrosion.
